Petropoulakis Tower
Rachi
Gythion
23 200 Mani
find it on the map
 


Olive farmers, politicians, revolutionaries and resistance fighters once lived in this centuries-old tower house which stands proudly on top of a hill, capturing views over olive groves, forests, mountains and sea. It's in a hamlet that was almost entirely destroyed, and subsequently abandoned, during the Second World War. Some 60 years later, Dimitris Petropoulakis, grandson of one of the hamlet's last residents, returned to restore the tower and smaller houses next to it and open a small hotel which he runs together with his wife Giota and her mother. Interiors are cosy and stylish and the bedrooms (ten in all) are very comfortable, and in addition there is a wonderfully relaxed and easy-going atmosphere. Bits and pieces of clutter outside make it all not feel too perfect; our dinner (prepared with home-grown, organic ingredients) was served by 11-year-old daughter Evgenia; friendly family cats and dogs kept us company throughout the meal. If you stay for a few days, you can learn how to make olive oil soap, prepare traditional spoon-sweets and bake bread in an original wood-fired oven.


What makes it special to me:

The quiet location in the hills and the traditional Mani architecture are wonderful; the welcome by owners Giota and Dimitris, the tasteful decoration and organically grown food make it even more special.


But what you should keep in mind:

There's no sitting room as such, and personally, I could do without the large television in the dining room. You should also be aware that most of the double bedrooms are on the small and dark side.
 

OwnerGiota and Dimitris Petropoulaki
Address Rachi
Gythion
23 200 Mani
Tel. 27333 00633 69.44.69.26.22
Fax
E-mailinfo@pyrgospetropoulaki.com
Website http://www.pyrgospetropoulaki.com
Opening period:

All year

Children:The hotel is relaxed and child-friendly.
Dogs:Allowed upon prior agreement. Horses are welcome too!
Prices:

Double room €80-110

Credit cards: VISA, DINERS, MASTERCARD
Accommodation5 double rooms
1 suite for 2 persons with private terrace
2 rooms for up to 3 persons (one with a fireplace)
2 suites for up to 4 persons (one with a fireplace)
Room facilities

En suite bathroom with massage shower
Mini-bar
Telephone
Television (and radio)
Safe
Hairdryer
Air conditioning

Dining room with a fireplace, television, a fireplace and wireless internet

The family is into organic farming. They have animals and also produce their own olive oil, fruits and vegetables. So the meals you will get here are prepared mostly with homegrown organic ingredients, and they taste fresh and healthy. For dinner you'll normally have a choice between a few starters and two or three main dishes. For lunch you can order some simple dishes like salads or omelettes. Breakfast (served from 9h00) is a help-yourself spread of fresh bread, traditional pies, cheeses and cold meats, eggs, homemade jams, fruits, and fresh juice. When the weather is nice, meals are served outside on the terrace; otherwise guests share the large dining room inside.

It is also easy to drive to Gythio for a meal by the sea. There is a large choice of fish tavernas. Ask Giota and Dimitris for recommendations.

The tower is in a tiny abandoned village that sits at the top of a hill in northern Mani. It is very quiet spot with great views over the hills and the sea. It is the perfect spot for nature lovers and anyone who likes to go for walks, but there's more: the centre of Gythio is only 4,5 km away and just a little further you get to a 3 km long sandy beach. There are also lots of possibilities for excursions: the caves of Diros (a must!) are just over 30 minutes by car; the remains of the Byzantine city of Mystras are about three quarters of an hour, and the castle city of Monemvasia is less than an hour's drive away.

From Sparta you follow signs for Gythio. Just a few kilometres before Gythio, 700 metres after you pass the turn-off for Aeropoli (which you do not take!), you will see a sign to the 'village' of Rahi (it is in Greek and reads PAHI) and the hotel. Turn left here; after 1,5 km turn right and you will see the tower after 300 metres. 

Mani is a rugged ‘middle finger’ in the southern Peloponnese. Its centuries-old stone towers uniquely mark the harsh landscape and remind one and all that this was the only part of mainland Greece that until the 18th century resisted Ottoman rule. Maniates, men and women alike, have always been known for their stubborn character and fiercely independent spirit. Some hair-raising stories exist not only about their ferocious battles against the Ottoman rulers, but also about bloody family feuds.

 

A visit to the most southern part the region, the inner Mani, is always a somewhat mystical experience which, fortunately, due to its remoteness, you are not likely to have to share with busloads of fellow travellers. Just like its people, the landscape of this southernmost part of the Greek mainland comes across as stark and forbidding, but the spectacular coastlines and barren mountain ranges, dotted with small clusters of fort-like tower-houses, never fail to captivate those passing through.

 

The inner Mani is an area to simply take in, rather than to run around touring site to site. Wandering around its many stone tower villages is a great experience (Vathia is a must). On the west coast, close to the main (village-sized) town, Aeropoli, the caves of Pirgos Dirou are among the best known in Greece and a definite must-see. Aeropoli is a charming place, fairly quiet during the day, and more lively at night. Go for a swim in the beautiful Limeni bay to its north, and have a meal by the water. Further south on the west coast is Gerolimenas, a tiny and charming port, not striking in terms of architecture (except for hotel Kyrimai) but a magical spot nevertheless. All the way south, there are some nice coves and beaches.

 

On the east coast you should make a stop at the little seaside town of Gythio, which has a good choice of fish restaurants by the water. The drive down the coastal road is beautiful, and you will come across several good beaches, some with sand, others with pebbles. Keep in mind though that this intriguing peninsula is not the place for beach bums, but for those who like to walk, explore and discover in peace and quiet. Spring is the best time of the year for this, and is indeed more of a ‘high season’ than the summer.

 

In contrast to the untamed wild beauty of the Inner Mani, the Outer Mani that lies to its north is much more friendly and lush in appearance. Set against the backdrop of the Taigetos mountain range, the area is one of the most scenic parts of Greece. The landscape is marked by hills covered with olive groves and punctuated by cypresses, lovely tower house villages, wild oleanders lining the winding road south, tiny Byzantine churches, and a beautiful coastline with emerald green waters. It has remained blissfully unspoilt and is still relatively undiscovered – the tourism that makes it to this out-of-the-way corner of Greece is generally of the ‘good kind’: people looking for natural beauty, tranquillity and a few sights rather than beach entertainment and nightlife. The opportunities for walking and hiking are numerous, and routes are clearly indicated by different coloured marks. They vary from easy half- to one-hour walks in the foothills of the Taigetos Mountains, to more serious hikes, notably the six-hour trek through the Viros Gorge. Kardamyli is the obvious base from where to explore the area: it is a pretty and peaceful village by the sea, with a good pebble beach.

Read here what others said about the Petropoulakis Tower

After a typical Greek wedding a few days at Petropoulakis Tower maybe is the only choice you have to get rid of the “noise” from your ears. An amazing tower up in a hill, a breathtaking view and the UNIQUE Giota & Dimitris was the combination for our two-days relaxing staying. Apart from the great room we had (ask for room no. 1), we passed all of our time near the fireplace, with homemade food and local red wine like as members of Petropoulakis family. This is not a hotel, this is not a motel, this is a traditional Peloponnese home that opens its doors to the people who respect every moment of their life.

Vangelis K.
Athens, Greece
January 2010
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